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40T (or 42T) conversion
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Author:  avidtest [ Mon Feb 16, 2015 2:56 pm ]
Post subject:  40T (or 42T) conversion
After running a 1x10 drive-train for a few years (32F / 11x36R), my knee starting telling me to knock it off; too much torque stress on the climbs was causing my knee to swell up after most rides (pathetic worn out P.O.S!)

Not wanting to drop the bigger bucks on a new 1x11 system, I decided to try out the Wolf Tooth 40T cog on my rear cassette (that's right Harley..a 40T - not a damn 42T).

Per the instructions, I removed the 17T cog and added the 40T above the 36T.

Right away, my ability to climb without feeling as much like my heart was going to burst, improved by a noteworthy amount. Better yet, my knee hasn't swollen a single time since. :w00t:

Unfortunately the install did not go without issue. Try as I might, I could not get the shifting dialed in and had to resort to taking my bike to the local shop. Even they could not get it perfect though, and I was plagued with a lingering clicking noise, and shifting that was not quite as smooth as I'd prefer. I finally managed to improve on the shifting, but the clicking continued when pedaling under load.

In a last ditch effort, I ordered a OneUp RAD cage, made specifically to help 10spd Shimano rear derailleurs accommodate the larger 40t and 42t cogs.

Eureka! Initial driveway testing suggests that shifting smoothness has improved a bit, with a wider range of adjustability/margin for error, i.e., all three adjustment screws and cable tension don't seem to have to be within a gnat's as of perfection for decent shifting. And better yet, no more clicking. :D

I really don't see a need for any more gears at the top or bottom of the range, and I'm happy to have accomplished the objective with a small budget..finally...
Author:  OldDogDan [ Mon Feb 16, 2015 3:22 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 40T (or 42T) conversion
I hear the 41 tooth tweener sprocket is just right.
Author:  Dirtrider [ Mon Feb 16, 2015 3:23 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 40T (or 42T) conversion
OldDogDan wrote:
I hear the 41 tooth tweener sprocket is just right.


The new wide/narrow one in carbon looks like the ticket but I'm waiting for the 41.5+.
Author:  Dirtrider [ Mon Feb 16, 2015 8:41 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 40T (or 42T) conversion
Before you purchased the cage, did you screw the B screw out to push the derailleur further away from the large gear? Probably wasn't enough room, eh?

I have had to do that when running a 36 tooth cassette
Author:  n10sive [ Mon Feb 16, 2015 9:40 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 40T (or 42T) conversion
The rad cage is the only way to go with a shimano der. It shifts 10 times better than just having a longer b tension screw.
Author:  k2rider [ Mon Feb 16, 2015 9:55 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 40T (or 42T) conversion
Glad it worked out for you. While I have the XX1, I encourage all my friends to go with this conversion (but the 42 tooth) now that it's available. I could have saved hundreds of dollars if this was available when I built up my bike.
Author:  avidtest [ Tue Feb 17, 2015 6:32 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 40T (or 42T) conversion
Dirtrider wrote:
Before you purchased the cage, did you screw the B screw out to push the derailleur further away from the large gear? Probably wasn't enough room, eh?

I have had to do that when running a 36 tooth cassette


Yes. I acquired the longer b screw along w/ the cog and had it adjusted w/ plenty of room between big cog and jockey wheel. Wasn't good enough though.
Author:  Mudd [ Tue Feb 17, 2015 8:20 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 40T (or 42T) conversion
I've been running a OneUp 42T with a SRAM X9 medium cage rear derailleur, for a year and a half now.
No issues with clicking, clacking, etc.... Except the haters.

I highly recommend it! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Attachments:
42T.jpg
42T.jpg [ 155.19 KiB | Viewed 15984 times ]
Author:  A_street [ Tue Feb 17, 2015 10:53 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 40T (or 42T) conversion
I ordered and re did my wife's drive train as a 1x10 using the one up components. I ordered the rad cage, 42t cog which came with a 16t cog, and a 30t chain ring to keep it pretty easy on her. I watched the videos from the website for direction on setting it up and it came out pretty good. Shifting is a little slow on that 16t cog because the machining is not as good as a shimano cassette cog. Other than that, it's well worth the money spent.
Author:  random walk [ Wed Feb 18, 2015 10:29 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 40T (or 42T) conversion
What are you 1xguys using for chain guides, if anything?
Author:  OhNooo [ Wed Feb 18, 2015 12:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 40T (or 42T) conversion
Another question... who has had a ride cut short because of issues with a front derailleur? I've had lots of rear derailleur issues, but have never had any issues with a front derailleur once it was set up. I'm running 2x, so the derailleur just has to move to 2 positions which makes setup simple.

Since I've never had an issue, I've never quite understood what problem is being solved by moving to 1x. I'm not trying to be a smart ass, just simply wondering what benefit this has.

I did run 1x for a while when I had a Rohloff 14-speed hub on a hard-tail. But that was so there was a straight chain line and no tensioner at all. Since dumping the Rohloff, I've been 2x9 and have never felt the need to change that.

Then again, I ride like your grandma, so I'm not bombing down anything. I would think that 1x solves the need for a chain guide, but the above question seems to imply you might still use one.
Author:  Red Hot Sloth [ Wed Feb 18, 2015 12:37 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 40T (or 42T) conversion
Speaking solely of my set-up as for not running a chain-guide with a 1x.
Before using a narrow-wide chainring a chain-guide is pretty much a requirement. I ran this for almost a year and a half. Then several weeks ago, picked up a narrow-wide chainring and a clutch rear d. I tested the narrow-wide by running with the clutch in the off position for 4 full rides. Not a single skip, hop, bounce or drop of my chain off the front or rear, it stayed put solidly. But that was with a new rear d with cresh springs, I feel if I tried it with an old rear d with worn tension springs the outcome would have been different.
So, all ya'll with a narrow-wide and clutch rear d and running some type of chain guide, unless your dropping in on some world class dh runs, ditch the guide. If your dropping chain with a clutch and narrow-wide combo then there is something seriously wrong with your set-up.

As for a reason for going 1x instead of a 2 ring set-up, I never had any issues with front shifting either, it always worked. But with one ring up front, I have less stuff on my bars, so just feels cleaner. When I was running a guide before going narrow wide I was 32 up front and 10-34 in the rear, now Im 32 front 10-36 in the rear. I suppose if I were to climb more steep stuff I would be inclined to either go 30 up front or 40 or 42 in the rear or a combo of each. I think though, if I rode big wheels I would definatly want 30 and 40 or 42 combo with a single ring set-up.
Going 1x for me was just a way to keep the bars from seeming clustered while still having all the gears I need.
But thats just me.
Author:  k2rider [ Wed Feb 18, 2015 1:06 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 40T (or 42T) conversion
My feelings are similar to RHS but I've been running 1x11 (XX1) for almost two years now on my Tallboy and when I built up my Mach 6 in November 2013, I had the same 1x11 installed on that. I don't run any type of chain guide on either bike and I've never dropped a chain on the Tallboy. I did drop it once on the Pivot about a month ago and I'm not sure why. It's so rare, I was dumbfounded.

Personally, I like the cleaner look of no front derailleur, I like having less stuff on my bars and I like having one less thing to think about as I panic shift (up or down) when I come up to some surprise hill or obstacle. That damn dropper post causes my enough problems. Over a year later, I'm still working on using the dropper like most people do.

All that being said, like I mentioned about, I'd go 1x10 with the 42 tooth sprocket by Wolf if I was building a bike up today. It would be ALOT cheaper than going the whole XX1 route.
Author:  random walk [ Wed Feb 18, 2015 1:31 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 40T (or 42T) conversion
Thanks all. My plan at the moment is a 1x10 (11-36) with x9 type 2.1, and a narrow-wide ring. Sounds like the chain guide is off the parts list.

I'd ride that around for a while and see if it's good enough, or if a 40/42T upgrade is needed. It looks like the 40/42T upgrade for SRAM is easier than for Shimano -- perhaps only a longer B screw is needed but no rad cage equivalent.

As it is, after riding a SS for so long, I'm really only longing for a slightly lower gear for the 10% of stuff I'm stalling out on now, plus a higher top end for going faster on the flats.

Anyway *rubs hands together* come on tax refund!
Author:  n10sive [ Wed Feb 18, 2015 4:28 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 40T (or 42T) conversion
After using the 1x10 11-40 setup for over a year now, I wouldn't mind a 2x10 setup. I had to go to a 32 front from a 34 to keep up on the longer steep climbs to maintain a good pace. Just a drop of the front chain ring would fix that.

Black spire makes a cheap top guide that I put on. You don't really need one with a narrow wide/clutch der setup but for that 5% chance of it falling off, I put the guide on. No way am I buying the e-thirteen though for the ridiculous amount they want. I have only had problems with a chain dropping when I am in the top gear and going full speed down a rock section.
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