Question????

Haunter270 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 19, 2011 10:59 pm

Is the fork oil in a FOX MTB shock the same as in a Dirt bike shock? The FOX shock takes 10w fork oil. Honda,Yamaha & Spectro oil all make 10w fork oil sold at Moto World. Could I use 1 of these instead of the Fox oil? Thanks.

Also, I now relalized that I posted this question in the wrong forum. I wanted to introduce myself in this forum. :wave:

Hi!
I live in Lakeside and have been enjoying biking ever since I was little. I remember riding my Redline BMX all over till I got my 1st truck @ age 17. Now I ride when the wife and kids allow it. Mtb allows such a feeling of freedom and accomplishment that I really enjoy. Knowing at my age I can climb a hill or do a 22 mile ride is a great feeling. Thanks for reading and allowing me to be part of a great community.

Red Hot Sloth · **Posted:** Thu Oct 20, 2011 6:53 am

I do. Some of these "moto" oils are rebadged to "Mountain Oils" and the mark-up is ridiculous. Save yourself some dough and buy your oil at the moto-shop.

:welcome:

his highness · **Posted:** Thu Oct 20, 2011 9:03 am

what he ^ said.
but to take it even a step further, make sure that you fully understand what and where you are adding oil to before doing so.
depending on the model of Fox fork you have (assuming we are talking about a fork), it will take 2 types of oil;

1- the oil in the lowers (which is purely for lubrication of the bushings and stanchions). this type of oil can be 5wt, 7wt, 10wt or 15wt, it doesn't really matter since its for lubrication and NOT dampening....but ideally you want to run a good synthetic 7wt -10wt. Golden Spectro is good, and so is Bel Ray (not synthetic).

2- the oil in the damper (this is for the dampening characteristics of the fork, so wt and type is CRUCIAL). be sure you get FORK CARTRIDGE OIL for this application since it is designed to foam up less when being cycled vigorously. also, stay with the manufacturers recommended oil weight (Fox= 10wt); if you go lower weight, it will speed up the rebound and soften the compression. if you go higher weight, it will slow down the rebound and stiffen up the compression. once you knwo for sure what and how you want the fork to feel, you can play with the oil weights to fine tune the fork...but me personally, i tend to stick with the 10wt in my Fox fork damper.

bets of luck and if you have any further questions, ask away.....

Haunter270 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 20, 2011 9:19 am

Great,great,great info Thank you!

24v · **Posted:** Fri Oct 21, 2011 3:53 am

his highness wrote:

what he ^ said.
but to take it even a step further, make sure that you fully understand what and where you are adding oil to before doing so.
depending on the model of Fox fork you have (assuming we are talking about a fork), it will take 2 types of oil;

1- the oil in the lowers (which is purely for lubrication of the bushings and stanchions). this type of oil can be 5wt, 7wt, 10wt or 15wt, it doesn't really matter since its for lubrication and NOT dampening....but ideally you want to run a good synthetic 7wt -10wt. Golden Spectro is good, and so is Bel Ray (not synthetic).

2- the oil in the damper (this is for the dampening characteristics of the fork, so wt and type is CRUCIAL). be sure you get FORK CARTRIDGE OIL for this application since it is designed to foam up less when being cycled vigorously. also, stay with the manufacturers recommended oil weight (Fox= 10wt); if you go lower weight, it will speed up the rebound and soften the compression. if you go higher weight, it will slow down the rebound and stiffen up the compression. once you knwo for sure what and how you want the fork to feel, you can play with the oil weights to fine tune the fork...but me personally, i tend to stick with the 10wt in my Fox fork damper.

bets of luck and if you have any further questions, ask away.....

You forgot the third type of oil that goes in the air spring. :wink:

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